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By Dionne Aiken
You’ve certainly heard of après skiing: the social time after swooshing down the slopes during which drinks and snacks are served, and stories are shared. But Colorado mountain towns are surprising hotbeds of good food, so the après phenomenon can — and should — apply to year-round outdoor pursuits (and extend through dinner, in my opinion).
This is especially true in Breckenridge, where easy access to hiking, skiing, fishing, and more is complemented by even easier access to a diverse and delectable dining scene. I grew up and live in Colorado, and over the years I’ve offered countless suggestions about the best trails to trek, which mountains to carve, and what rivers to float. I’ve learned, though, that most people arrive with a pretty solid adventure itinerary already planned. What they need help with is the après to go along with their activities to complete the entire experience.
To that end, here’s where I send my out-of-town family and friends to wrap up a fun outdoorsy day around Breckenridge:
Whether you tackle 14,271-foot-high Quandary Peak — one of Colorado’s popular 14ers just south of Breckenridge — or stick to an easier trail around town (try Sawmill Reservoir or the Sallie Barber Mine route), Downstairs at Eric’s is an ideal spot for some post-hiking sustenance.
The entrance is right on Main Street, although, as the name suggests, you’ll need to venture down a set of stairs to the actual restaurant, which is a casual family-friendly sports bar with the menu to prove it. You’ll find wings, nachos, chicken fingers, mozzarella sticks, fish and chips, and so on, as well as a few surprises: the falafel plate, French onion soup, and the Thai chicken salad. The pizza selection, from the meat lovers to the much lighter margherita, is great for groups.
I usually go with the B.P.D. Burger — a half-pound Colorado Angus patty topped with bacon, cheddar, and barbecue sauce — and a basket of onion rings. There’s a full bar, some 30 beers on tap, and plenty of televisions if you’re hoping to catch a big game. Finally, if you’ve got some hungry kids in tow who need a little distraction while waiting for a plate of mac and cheese, there are approximately 25 arcade games in the landing at the bottom of the stairs.
At the height of ski and snowboard season, Breckenridge spans 2,908 rideable acres, with 187 trails and three terrain parks. From easygoing beginner runs to mellow groomers to narrow chutes and bowls above tree line, there is territory for everyone. With three base areas — at the bottom of Peak 7, Peak 8, and Peak 9 — your après choices are expansive, too. But here’s my (somewhat) secret alternative: Head across town to the Briar Rose Chophouse & Saloon.
You’ll need to change out of your ski or snowboard boots, but the happy hour specials on the wide-ranging beer, cocktail, wine, and nonalcoholic menu are well worth the effort. The smoked old fashioned is the hands-down highlight. And when they say smoked, they mean it. After mixing the rye, bitters, and maple syrup, the bartender pulls out a blowtorch and chars a small plank of oak right on the bar. An upturned glass is used to capture the smoke and then the classic drink is poured into it over a large cube with an orange peel shaving. It’s flawless.
If you’re interested in a traditional steak-house supper, make a post-happy hour dinner reservation — and then veer just a bit nontraditional when you order, because I must insist that you try the elk medallions with the wild mushroom demi-glace, accompanied by the whipped potatoes and chorizo-laced brussels sprouts family-style side dishes.
The Blue River runs right through the heart of Breckenridge and provides a convenient entry point to casting flies for brown, cutthroat, and rainbow trout in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains. Other streams and small lakes are also readily accessible, and various outfitters in town offer guided excursions that range from introductory sessions to full-day float trips. The fishing is all catch-and-release, but if you want to sample some of the local trout, check out the Southridge Seafood Grill.
Because I’m a sucker for both Alaskan king crab legs and well-prepared ahi tuna with a teriyaki glaze, I always spend about five minutes considering these two options when I sit down at Southridge. By the time the waiter is serious about taking our order, though, I’ve settled on the grilled Rocky Mountain red trout. And trust me, it’s not settling at all.
The flaky white meat pairs wonderfully with the bacon-potato-shrimp hash, and it’s always the perfect portion size. If you’re not ready to commit to the full entree, there is a house-smoked trout dip appetizer. (I’m a sucker for smoked fish, too, so I don’t hesitate to order this as soon as the waiter says hello.)
No matter what outdoor fun I’m having and where I end up enjoying my après time, there is one food stop I never leave Breckenridge without visiting: the Mountain Top Cookie Shop. It’s important to note that baking at high altitude — the town of Breckenridge sits at an elevation of 9,728 feet — is a challenge. The lower air pressure causes baking powder to expand more quickly and liquids to evaporate faster than normal. No need to worry about these issues at the Mountain Top Cookie Shop. Whatever their secret is, it’s working. The cookies are big and moist and seemingly come in a favorite flavor for everyone, from chocolate chip and snickerdoodle to peanut butter pretzel and a dried cranberry, oatmeal, white chocolate combination. My personal pick is the Mmmm …, a simple cookie stuffed with those well-known candy-coated chocolate treats that make us all go … well, “mmmm.”
Author bio:
J.B. Bissell is a Colorado-based writer and editor who’s been skiing, hiking, and fishing — and après-ing — his way around the state for more than four decades. It’s not out of the question for him to day trip to Breckenridge to make a Mountain Top Cookie Shop run.
